And the Nilands are reeled back onto the stage to accept the big one: Vittoria Coffee Restaurant of the Year.

Josh Niland recalls attending his first Good Food Guide Awards 15 years ago – the Guide’s 25th anniversary – and flipping a tray of a dozen glasses of champagne in front of a who’s who of chefs (Damien Pignolet, Mark Best, Neil Perry and Kylie Kwong, to name a few). How times have changed.

Niland pays tribute to the “extraordinarily talented chefs and front of house teams” that have gone through the Saint Peter kitchen. “We’ve been fortunate to attract wonderful people.” (Including tonight’s Oceania Cruises Chef of the Year, Paul Farag.)

“We’re incredibly excited and overwhelmed and happy. We’re proud of all that this is but also very grateful.”

Josh Niland (centre) at the new Saint Peter, in Paddington’s Grand National Hotel.Credit: Jennifer Soo

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